Misi Restaurant Review
We Really Like Pasta, don’t We
Missy Robbins has struck again. Hailing from a rich background of Italian cooking, Robbins earned her chops at A Voce, before opening the famed Lilia in winter of 2016. Since then, she has generated quite a bit of prominence among New York City’s modern Italian restaurants, earning 3 stars in the New York Times—a feat rarely achieved by new restaurants, especially when reviewed by the discerning Pete Wells. For the last 6 months or so, there have been great rumors speculating her second location. And now we have our answer.
In stark contrast to the nearby abandoned Domino Sugar factory, Misi is housed in the ground floor of a modern apartment building. It is an oasis that basks in the East River sunset, on what is a very desolate Kent Avenue. A dozen millennials lined up for almost half an hour to get into a relatively inconspicuous restaurant. But once you get closer, you realize that this is no normal restaurant. Several cooks are stationed in a pasta laboratory, deeply focused on making fresh pasta. In the kitchen, open for all to see, line cooks boil pasta, whip up emulsions, and elegantly plate dishes. Though this was only Misi’s second day in business, the organization and coordination of the staff seemed to be on point.
The antipasti were very shareable. There was roasted eggplant served with a spoon for you to scoop it right out of the skin. Chanterelle mushrooms confidently paired only with garlic, oil, and lemon, bringing its strong flavors to light. And finally, a study of textures with crunchy radicchio juxtaposed against fatty, runny bone marrow.
Indisputably, Misi and Lilia’s prized specialties are the pastas. With all of the dough freshly prepared on site, there’s no going wrong with them. Most are light, with ingredients, bright in both color and flavor. We ordered an array of pastas to share, starting with a refreshing corzetti with golden cherry tomatoes, perfect for the summer. Malloreddus with clams was greatly enhanced with a vibrant touch of yellow saffron. The linguine with anchovies can certainly win over anyone’s heart, for it does not overwhelm one’s palate with the sometimes divisive taste of anchovies. The slight saltiness complemented with lemon zest fused in flavors reminiscent of the sea. The strangozzi with pork ragu had a strong, hardy flavor, but was not as well differentiated compared to the others. Easily the best two pastas on the menu were the spinach tortellini with brown butter sauce and the sheep’s milk ricotta occhi (eyes). The rich, flowing, filling of spinach and mascarpone cheese was held in an unbelievably thin, yet supple skin. Its brown butter sauce was delectable, almost tasting like caramel. The occhi echoed another very famous dish at Lilia, the sheep’s milk ricotta agnolotti with saffron. However, instead of saffron, the occhi are dusted with bottarga (dried tuna roe) and lemon zest. The fat from the ricotta greatly helps transport the unique combination of saltiness and sweetness of the bottarga to the palate.
The dessert menu consists only of homemade gelatos. They were certainly intensely flavored, but people with a sweet tooth may be disappointed in the lack of traditional options.
This new South Williamsburg establishment is truly a strong next step in Robbins’ career. Everything here exemplifies her passion, hence #ChoosePasta is her new trademark. Where will she strike next?
- Lucas Wang