Sixty Three Clinton
Born out of the creative minds of co-owners Sam Clonts and Raymond Trinh, Sixty Three Clinton offers a delightfully memorable take on modern American cuisine. After spending many years as the executive chef at the three-Michelin starred Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, Chef Clonts opened this restaurant during the summer of 2021 to tell NYC his story through food. Located in the heart of the Lower East Side, the restaurant has a clean atmosphere, and the decor is sprinkled with items that you would typically see in a 1950s living room. Dimly lit, with 1960s-1980s rock echoing in the background, the space is truly inviting. As I initially sat down, I was promptly greeted with a warm towel while my waiter explained to me the menu and progression of the meal.
The first dish, served on a thick warm ceramic plate, was the Breakfast Taco. While many of the dishes rotate seasonally, this dish has remained a constant and for good reason. On my first bite, I initially tasted the tortilla - it was airy and warm, almost pillowy, and kept its heat for a surprising amount of time. Then I tasted the hash brown strip which was incredibly crispy and not oily at all. The third flavor that hit me was the ajitama, a Japanese marinated, soft-boiled egg, which provided a bouncy texture with almost milky creaminess. And the final flavor to reach my taste buds was the smoked trout roe which delightfully provided an explosion of salty seafood flavor in my mouth with each pop of a fish egg .
The next dish, an a la carte item, was the Caviar Hand Roll. Although this three-bite dish is probably the most accessible and affordable osetra caviar dish offered in New York City, it is still incredibly expensive. However, this dish was well worth the steep price as it was one of the most memorable culinary experiences I have ever experienced. To my surprise and delight, Chef Sam Clonts wheeled out a small cart directly to my table and prepared the dish right in front of me. Crunching through the seaweed, I first tasted the fresh-grated wasabi which had incredibly deep flavor, which was in total contrast to the fake wasabi found at most restaurants. Obviously, the caviar was the star of this show. So aromatic but not too fishy and popping with little resistance. A truly remarkable bite!
The second dish on the tasting menu was the Hamachi crudo. The Hamachi (i.e., yellowtail) was thinly coated with chili oil and topped with charcoal grilled bok-choy. The fish had a smooth texture, and the chili oil served as a flavor enhancer rather than a spicy addition. The bok-choy was crisp and cold providing a great compliment to the fish. Rounding off the bite dish was the thai basil sauce which coated and lingered on my tongue elegantly.
The next dish was the Murray Cod, served with ricotta and calabrian chili. The cod meat was extremely soft while the skin remained highly crispy. Unlike usual fish skin, this skin did not taste overwhelmingly fishy and instead tasted almost exactly like the seaweed found in the caviar hand roll dish. The ricotta was foamy and cloudy in texture and light in flavor, while the calabrian chili cream added a mild kick at the end of my bite. My only issue with this dish was that is was served with chopsticks. While I usually am quite adept at using chopsticks, I found it quite challenging to eat this dish with them. I wish a fork and knife was provided like they were in subsequent dishes.
The Peekytoe Crab was a fun dish to eat served with fava beans, sugar snap peas, and white asparagus purée. Noting to us that this dish was akin to a spring time chowder, Chef Clonts perfectly captured the soul of the dish as the purée acted as a rich chowder broth. And similar to the roe and caviar of the previous courses, the peas and fava beans provided an excellent explosion of flavor in my mouth.
The next course, listed solely as Asparagus on the menu, actually was comprised of two items: charcoal grilled asparagus and homemade sourdough bread. Retaining its heat, the asparagus had a fragrant, earthy, and slightly sweet taste. The hollandaise was super airy and not heavy, which is quite rare for that type of sauce. The small bits of diced eel and seaweed added a light, oceany flavor without drowning out the flavor of the vegetable. The sourdough was steaming hot, dense in texture, and light in flavor. The butter was perfectly salted and not arrogantly flavorful.
The final savory dish of the night was the Berkshire Pork Short Rib, plated with ramps and pho broth. The pork marinade thoroughly and perfectly soaked through the meat with sweet and robust flavor. The chopped chili on top of the pork added a citrusy and bright flavor. And unlike most short ribs, the fattiness was not overwhelming, thanks to the chili. While the edges of the pork were lightly charred, the meat remained moist and tender. The ramps were slightly bitter with a natural herbal spiciness. Finally, the pho broth was very rich, injecting more pork and herbal notes into the dish.
The last course of the evening was a strawberry ice cream Baked Alaska served on top of a cardamom cake. Cracking the toasted marshmallow meringue reminded me of cracking an egg to reveal its soft, runny interior. On first bite, the intense strawberry flavor of the ice cream hit me first. Then, the crumbly cardamom cake shined next, reminding me of a soft graham cracker because of its earthiness with cinnamon notes. Finally, the meringue provided both a crispy and fluffy texture. A perfect ending to this magical meal!